Jason Suss spent 15 years in tech before leaving the corporate world to pursue his passion for cocktails. For the past 12 years, he has worked on both sides of the bar at local restaurants. He now lives in Lowry Hill and owns @AProperPour.
Go Out. It Matters.
The whole reason I started this column is to share with people the bars and restaurants I like to go to and why. As I write this, it’s Jan. 15, and the bar and restaurant industry in our state is being devastated. I hope that by the time this article comes out we are past this moment, but here are my “Why Go” thoughts for right now.
January is always the most difficult month for restaurants. We just finished the holiday season. People are on a health kick, not drinking, partied out or otherwise staying home. It’s also cold and dark, which makes going out even less appealing. And now this. Restaurants are among the hardest and most direct targets of ICE activity. Employees are scared to go to work, guests are scared to go out, and the impact grows from there.
“They took the risk for us. We owe it to them now. So go somewhere.”
So this month the “Why go anywhere?” answer is simple. Because it’s essential that you do. Because you need to support the same people our country called essential just a few years ago. Remember that? Workers in restaurants and grocery stores, cleaning crews, the health care workforce. They were at the top of the list. Many of us stayed home in our pajamas on Zoom while they went to the front lines. They took that risk for us. We owe it to them now.
So go somewhere. Like the Dakota.
Order takeout or delivery on a night you normally wouldn’t. If you go out, add an appetizer or a dessert. Small gestures make a real difference.
Here’s one of the places I went this week. Established in 1985, the Dakota just completed its 40th year. It started in St. Paul and later moved to downtown Minneapolis, where it’s remained.
The Twin Cities is known for its music scene, giving us artists like Prince, Bob Dylan, the Replacements and, of course, Sisqó.
First Avenue is the most famous venue downtown and has hosted nearly every major musician at some point, but the Dakota is something different. It’s a music venue and a restaurant — and a good one.
This is as much a restaurant with music as it is a music venue with food. It’s not a deep fryer in the back. They are making and serving real food. It began with Ken Goff, then chefs Jack Riebel, Tim McKee and Remy Pettus spent time in the kitchen. If you follow the food scene, you know those names.
“The Dakota is as much a restaurant with music as it is a music venue with food.”
The kitchen is now led by Asher Larson, a friend from my own restaurant days. He has worked with some of the best in the cities, and it’s great to see him shine in this role.
The menu has everything a venue like this should offer: shareable snacks, substantial sandwiches and well-composed entrees for those making a full night of it.
The ingredients are fresh and seasonal, and Asher’s technique shows. I had the cavatelli bolognese. It was hearty and rich, and the house-made pasta had just the right texture for the meaty sauce.
The bar program gets the same attention. The Dakota was a leader in the craft cocktail movement. Bartenders like Johnny Michaels, who was my mentor, and Pip Hanson of Marvel Bar fame worked behind its bar.
The cocktail list is still excellent. You’ll find house-made ingredients like guajillo reduction in a mezcal sour, spiced clarified butter and brown sugar in a hot rum cocktail, and all the whiskey and brandy a jazz club should have. There’s something for everyone: wine, local beer, THC drinks and NA options.
And of course, the music. I went to see the Travis Anderson Trio. They play great jazz and also do themed shows with jazz versions of film and video game music. This one featured songs from Disney, Pixar, Studio Ghibli and, naturally, a bonus number from Super Mario 2 — yes, the weird one with the vegetables.
The Dakota is open seven days a week. The calendar includes jazz, rock, tribute bands and even hip hop. You can pre-order valet service to save money and avoid the cold.
So check their schedule and pick a night. Or go somewhere else. But go.
