Jason Suss spent 15 years in tech before leaving the corporate world to pursue his passion for cocktails. For the past 12 years, he has worked on both sides of the bar at local restaurants. He now lives in Lowry Hill and owns @AProper- Pour.
If you haven’t heard of Waterbury, you’re not alone. It’s the restaurant inside the Waterbury House apartment building — the high-end luxury complex wedged in that odd triangle near the fire station, Whole Foods and Bde Maka Ska. Like everything else in that corner of the city, it’s surrounded by construction. The building and restaurant share almost the same name, which makes it even easier to miss. But it’s there. Let’s talk about it.
First, the ownership: the same group runs Oliver’s and Bricks in Blaine and Shoreview, along with the food and beverage program at the charming Lora hotel in Stillwater. That includes Feller and its bar, The Long Goodbye. I’ve stayed at Lora, eaten and drank at both, and had a great time. It’s an ideal spot for a staycation. This group knows what it’s doing.
So, what’s the deal with Waterbury? Honestly, it’s a little confusing. It looks and feels like a boutique hotel restaurant and lounge, even though it’s attached to apartments. That’s probably intentional — these are some of the priciest apartments in the Twin Cities. There’s free indoor parking through the garage door on the south side, though it’s valet only on Wednesday nights when there’s live jazz. The big lot just south of the building is free to the public after 5:30 p.m. Mon-Fri and All-day Sat, Sun and Holidays.
The Food
Waterbury keeps ambitious hours: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. most days, until 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. That schedule, plus the all-day coffee bar, reinforces the hotel vibe. The menu runs the gamut — calamari, potstickers, sandwiches, falafel, salads, pasta, bison short ribs and more. Prices range from a $12 happy hour burger to a $65 steak frites. I tried the burger with shoestring fries. Both were good, and the room seemed full of satisfied diners.
The Drinks
Now my specialty. The bar is well stocked with quality spirits and a thoughtful wine list. The cocktail menu mixes signature house creations with classics, plus a strong lineup of non-alcoholic options. My gripe? The flowery descriptions. Just tell me what’s in the glass. I’ll decide if it “elevates me to new levels of glamour and luxury.” Someone clearly got carried away with ChatGPT. Still, the drinks were solid. No surprise there — the bartender used to work at Matchstick in Stillwater, which has a legendary library of 2,000-plus premium spirits.
So, why go?
That’s where it gets tricky. Everything I had was good, and reviews back that up. But aside from its polished, upscale chain-hotel-lobby vibe, I wasn’t sure what Waterbury wanted to be. Safe and crowd-pleasing seems to be the mission. Nobody’s leaving unhappy — assuming they know that the place exists. Prices are on the high side, but that’s par for the course now. Food and drinks are high quality, the décor is attractive and the staff is attentive. For value, aim for happy hour.
