Jason Suss spent 15 years in tech before leaving the corporate world to pursue his passion for cocktails. For the past 12 years, he has worked on both sides of the bar at local restaurants. He now lives in Lowry Hill and owns @AProperPour.
After nearly 20 years at the corner of Hennepin and 25th, Rinata should not be a new name to anyone in the neighborhood. A classic Italian trattoria — cozy, small, family-owned, traditional. Rinata translates to “reborn” in Italian, and the name couldn’t be more appropriate. We’re all hoping for a bit of a rebirth along the Uptown Hennepin corridor as construction finally wraps up. Rinata was hit particularly hard, sitting almost at the epicenter of both the north and south phases of the project.
So this article is less of a “why go?” and more of a “why go again?” A gentle reminder that they’re still there — and that says something.
A Neighborhood Classic
Rinata opened in 2006. Nearly 20 years as a small family restaurant is quite a feat on its own. Most fail in fewer than five years; some recently in as few as a month. In fact, it was one of the first restaurants we went to when we moved here in 2006. It was good then, and it’s good now. They’ve persevered through everything their location and life have thrown at them — construction, Uptown’s challenges, even a death in the family.
Food and Experience
Rinata does everything well. First and foremost, they make all their pasta in-house. You can always tell when the pasta is freshly made — it just has that wonderful tender but toothy texture. Your meal starts with fresh-baked crusty bread accompanied by olive tapenade and oil. It’s complimentary — as opposed to the $9 any North Loop spot would charge for it.
We shared a large arugula salad: sweetness from cherries, crunch from pistachios, acid from the light dressing, and umami from the pecorino. Everything worked. I opted for the bucatini — arguably one of the best pastas. A spaghetti-like shape but hollow, it lets the rich tomato sauce hide inside. The house-cured pancetta (think Italian bacon) added a salty, meaty note. Exactly the kind of rich, hearty bowl of pasta I often crave.
My wife went with the gnocchi. Gnocchi can be tricky to make — they often turn dense and heavy — but these were nice and fluffy, balancing well with the rich lobster cream sauce. We saw several pizzas heading to nearby tables, and they looked great, too. Pasta dishes range from about $25 to $35, and pizzas are in the low $20s. Service is friendly and attentive — and if you go a couple of times, they’ll probably remember your name.
Wine, Cocktails and Atmosphere
The wine list is relatively small but suits the space. Plenty of Italian options to pair well with the cuisine. There are enough by-the-glass options for everyone to find something they like. The full bar and cocktail list also have something for everyone.
Why It Matters
Here’s the rub: Unless you’ve had your head in a traffic cone for the last five years, you’ve probably noticed the Twin Cities food scene is blowing up — nationally and internationally. James Beard, Food & Wine (hi, Diane!), The New York Times and others are all recognizing our culinary scene. Gavin’s empire, Daniel del Prado’s 137 new restaurants, Yia’s everything — and more.
It’s great to try the new celebrity-chef hot spots, but let’s not ignore the tried-and-true mom-and-pop ones.
Located:
Friday – Saturday: 4:30 – 10 P.M.
Rinata
2451 Hennepin Ave South
Minneapolis, MN, 55405
(612)-374-8998
Tuesday – Thursday: 4:30 – 9 P.M.
Sunday & Monday: Closed.
