OK, so I basically crossed the street from last month’s column. I was trying to decide where to visit this month. It was just a normal Wednesday night around 7:30 p.m., so I decided to take a little drive. I started at Franklin and Hennepin and worked my way down to 31st Street. Traffic was slow, of course, so I had plenty of time to look around.
Azia Luna isn’t open yet, so that was out. Tom’s Thai is still dry.
I headed toward Lyndale. Vuka Peri Peri chicken is open at Lake and Lyndale. It looks interesting, and I do enjoy periperi, but I was in the mood for more of a full-service restaurant. Haraz Coffee House is also open and seemed to be fairly busy, especially for a Wednesday night. I’ll get there soon. It looks like a great date spot or a morning coffee-and-pastry option.
I made it up Lyndale, passing Jade Dynasty, which is best with a group so you can try more items; Nightingale, one of the few late-night full-service options; and The Bulldog, which would have been my choice if I had been in the mood for a burger.
Then I remembered Barbette. It had been a long time since I’d been there, so I did another slow drive down Hennepin and worked my way to the parking lot behind the building.
35 Years on One Corner
Barbette has been there since 2001. With the exception of Susan Lenfestey, there probably aren’t a lot of people who remember when it was Café Wyrd. I certainly don’t. It was Kim Bartmann’s first restaurant, and it opened in 1991. That puts Bartmann in that spot for 35 years, an incredibly long time for any restaurant, especially one in Uptown.
Since then, she has opened, closed or sold a number of restaurants. Bryant-Lake Bowl, Pat’s Tap, Book Club, Bread & Pickle, Tiny Diner, Gigi’s Cafe and Red Stag Supperclub are some that come to mind.
Why You Should Go
Let’s talk about why you should go there. The place is super cute, with a real French bistro feel. The layout (with that weird big round table right as you walk in), the decor, the chalkboard menus, the sidewalk tables and, of course, the classic French fare give it a nice, cozy vibe.
Steak Frites, Full House
I opted for the steak frites, about as classic French bistro as it gets. You have the option of an 8-ounce sirloin for $46 or a 6-ounce “bistro steak” for $35. I chose the latter, cooked medium, and paired it with a glass of French Malbec.
The fries were hot and crispy (which seems to be less common than it should be at most places), the green beans were tender but still had a crunch, and the steak was good, but probably more of a medium-well.
“What surprised me was that the place was almost completely full.”
For comparison, a similar steak frites (minus the beans) at North Loop’s Bellecour runs $36, and Meritage has one on the menu for $45. Beef, along with just about everything else, is expensive now, but the prices at Barbette seem in line with the market.
After tax, credit card fee and tip, my entree and glass of wine came to $70. Is that a lot for one person for a Wednesday night dinner? Yes, but that’s just how it is now.
What surprised me was that the place was almost completely full. On my lap around the area, nearly all the other restaurants were sparsely populated at best. So walking in and getting one of the only empty tables was a bit of a surprise, albeit a good one.
Groups of all ages and sizes were chatting, eating and drinking, and at least half were dunking their bread into the broth from the mussels, which was clearly the most popular item on the menu. It quieted down a bit as I ate, but even as I was leaving, more people were arriving. There was even a table or two seated outside, enjoying our unusually warm October.
Before You Go
A few more bits of useful info: The menu is large. Dinner is served daily from 4 to 11 p.m., and until midnight Friday and Saturday. There are small shareable plates (tartare, oysters, charcuterie and the like), at least five salads to choose from, soup and about a dozen fully composed entrees. Brunch is served daily from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.
The drink list is substantial, with lots of nonalcoholic, light or full-strength options. A weekday social hour from 2 to 5 p.m. has a bunch of $6, $8 and $10 options. The Trapeze space next door can host private events for 15 to 50 guests.
So, if it’s been a while since you’ve been there, it’s probably time for another visit. Bon appétit!
Jason Suss spent 15 years in tech before leaving the corporate world to pursue his passion for cocktails. For the past 12 years, he has worked on both sides of the bar at local restaurants. He now lives in Lowry Hill and owns @AProperPour.
